Delectable kebabs, fragrant biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and visitors equally praising its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
In a recent announcement, Unesco honored it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – including it in a prestigious list of world cities and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this title, it becomes part of a global network of over 400 cities across over 100 countries committed to promoting "creativity as a key factor of development that sustains urban life".
The recognition "is a testament to its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and dynamic gastronomic culture," as stated by a spokesperson from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to earn a spot in this coveted list of 70 global destinations internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this time-honored city is no surprise to its locals or dedicated food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this beloved, bustling, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is now in the global gaze for what has always shaped its essence: an immense love for food.
"'What will be cooked, the method of preparation' is a ongoing discussion from waking up until going to bed in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often judged by the excellence of food that comes out of your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of the Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were invented, evolved, and raised to exquisite levels in their imperial kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were epicenters of culinary innovations, blending Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was devised to feed an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks processed the meat with papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the pot's lid securely sealed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Besides the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only celebrates seasonal produce but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Virtually on countless corners, there are small establishments and stalls – lesser-known delights that are immensely favored by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, huge crowds start gathering from early morning at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in earthenware cups, along with pillowy soft buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can make their way to a simple joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also offers special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert available in the winter. The technique of making it is scientific and complicated. The cook hand-churns the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible airy feel.
On crisp mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of but note that their children do not want to take up the craft.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has often said that the city's rich food legacy puts it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – crafted by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is believed, will motivate more people worldwide to learn these narratives and travel to the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
